Bulatova Svitlana
Around table of Lithuanian nobles Yelenskys (based on material of manuscript collection from mid-18th century from family gathering)Section: Studies in Special Historical Disciplines Abstract: The aim of the work is to analyze the gastronomic preferences of the Lithuanian noble family of Yelenskis in the mid-18th century based on a manuscript collection (1744—1752) that belonged to the owner of Skorbutyan, Michal Yelensky, the local sub-chamberlain of Mozyr, as well as to involve this little-known source into scientific circulation. The methodology is grounded in interdisciplinary areas such as everyday history and food studies, comparative methods, and the principles of publishing old Polish manuscript sources from the 16th to the 19th century. At the same time, chronological and historical methods, as well as principles of codicological and source analysis, were applied. Scientific novelty. A new manuscript sourcehas been introduced into scientific circulation, which highlights the characteristics of the table of the Lithuanian nobles, the Yelensks, and the role of Michal Yelensky as the owner of the estate in Skorbutyany. An analysis of invoices, product registers, and dishes mentioned in the text of the collection allows us to model the gastronomic preferences and eating habits of the Yelensks. For the first time, the recipe for coffee by M. Yelensky from the mid-18th century, originating from Lithuanian territories, has been published. Conclusions. The consumption of coffee and tea, which lost their medicinal function by the mid-18th century, is viewed asevidence of the reception of European Enlightenment models by the Lithuanian gentry. Significant innovations — coffee and tea — are analyzed in the context of fashionable trends concerning table setting, tableware, and furniture, which recreated an atmosphere of intimacy during dinner conversations. In contrast, the gastronomic preferences of the Yelensky family, characterized by such markers of social distinction as the richness of spices, sugar, and other additives, demonstrate their adherence to the old Polish aesthetic of taste. At the same time, the owners emphasize the quality of the products. The supply routes of imported products and ingredients to consumers in the region were served by ports on the Baltic, primarily Königsberg. Keywords: Michal Yeleński, handwritten collection of the mid-18th century, Lithuanian nobility, gastronomic preferences, registers.
Author(s) citation:
Cite: Bulatova Svitlana. (2025). Around table of Lithuanian nobles Yelenskys (based on material of manuscript collection from mid-18th century from family gathering). Manuscript and book heritage of Ukraine, (3) 133-153 . https://doi.org/10.15407/rksu.38.133
References: - Moda bardzo dobra smażenia różnych konfektów i innych słodkości, a także przyrządzania wszelkich potraw, pieczenia chleba i inne sekrety gospodarskie i kuchenne / oprac. J. Dumanowski, R. Jankowski. Warszawa: Muzeum Pałacu Króla Jana III w Wilanowie, 2011. Monumenta Poloniae Culinaria. Polskie zabytki kulinarne, red. J. Dumanowski, t. II, 273 s.
- Fond I. Unit 5962. 62 fol. Institute of Manuscript of V.I. Vernadskyi National Library of Ukraine.
- Bulatova S. Tradytsiini napoi shliakhetskoho dvoru na biloruskykh zemliah Velykoho kniazivstva Lytovskoho u pershii chverti XVII stolittia za rukopysom Mlechka iz zibrannia Hreptovychiv u fondakh Instytutu rukopysu Natsionalnoi biblioteky Ukrainy imeni V.I. Vernadskoho [Traditional beverages of the szlachta court on the Belorussian lands of the Grand Dutchy of Lithuania in the first quarter of the 17th century (under the Mleczko’s manuscript from the Chreptowicz collection in the fonds of the Institute of Manuscript of V.I. Vernadskyi National Library of Ukraine)]. Rukopysna ta knyzhkova spadshchyna Ukrainy [Manuscript and Book Heritage of Ukraine]. 2017. Iss. 21, pp. 73—96. [In Ukrainian].
- Bulatova S. Tradytsiini napoi shliakhetskoho dvoru na biloruskykh zemliakh Velykoho kniazivstva Lytovskoho u pershii chverti XVII stolittia: stolove nachinnia ta posud (za rukopysom Mlechka) z fondiv Instytutu rukopysu Natsionalnoi biblioteky Ukraini imeni V.I. Vernadskoho [Traditional beverages at the court of the nobles of the Belarusian lands of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania in the first quarter of the 17th century: tableware (basedon the manuscript of Mlechko in the Khreptovich collection from the fonds of the Institute of Manuscript of V.I.Vernadskyi National Library of Ukraine)]. Rukopysna ta knyzhkova spadshchyna Ukrainy [Manuscript and Book Heritage of Ukraine]. 2018. Iss. 22, pp. 100—116. [In Ukrainian].
- Bulatova S. Zahalni zasady ta spetsyfichni osoblyvosti istoryko-kodykolohichnoi atrybutsii staropolskykh rukopysiv ranniomodernoi doby (na prykladi kukharskych pamiatok XVII—XVIII stolit z fondiv Instytutu rukopysu NBUV [General principles and specific features of the historical and codicological attribution of Old Polish manuscripts of the early modern period (on the example of culinary monuments of the 17th—18th centuries from the collections of the Institute of Manuscript of V.I. Vernadskyi National Library of Ukraine)] // Istoryko-kultorolohichni doslidzhennia rukopysnoi spadshchyny v Instytuti rukopysu Natsionalnoi biblioteky Ukrainy imeni V.I. Vernadskoho [Historical and cultural studies of manuscript heritage at the Institute of Manuscript of V.I. Vernadskyi National Library of Ukraine: monograph] / team of authors : T. Batanova, O. Bodak, S. Bulatova ets. Kyiv, 2024. Pp. 263—283. [In Ukrainian]. doi: https://doi.org/10.15407/r_nbuv.0004977
- Fond I. Unit 1120. 216 fols. Institute of Manuscript of V.I. Vernadskyi National Library of Ukraine.
- D. Rolnik, Województwo mińskie i Jeleńscy w życiu publicznym Rzeczypospolitej wlatach 1764—1795 w świetle ich korespondencji, Wydawnictwo Uniwersytetu Śląskiego, Katowice, 2018, 324 s.
- D. Rolnik, Archiwum Jeleńskich z NGAB w Mińsku (XVI—XX wiek) : jego dzieje i inwentarz, Wydawnictwo Uniwersytetu Śląskiego, Katowice, 2018, 504 s.
- Inventory 1. Unit 35. 105 fols. Archive of Institute of Manuscript of V.I. Vernadskyi National Library of Ukraine.
- Cherkaska N. Arkhivy mahnaterii Pravoberezhnoi Ukrainy: istoria formuvannia, struktura, informatsiinyi potentsial (kyivski zibrannia) [Archives of the Magnateria of Right Bank Ukraine: history of formation, structure, information potential (Kyiv collections)] (Candidate’s thesis). Kyiv, 2010.
- Fond I. Unit 161. Fols. 978—990; 991—993, 1116—1119. Institute of Manuscript of V.I. Vernadskyi National Library of Ukraine.
- Skorbuciany // Słownik geograficzny Królestwa Polskiego i innych krajów słowiańskich. Warszawa, 1889, t. 10 (Rukszenice-Sochaczew), s. 696.
- Jackiewicz M. Skurbutėnai // Jackiewicz, Mieczysław. Litwa: Podróż sentymentalna. Warszawa, 2006, s. 119—120.
- Laucevičius E. Popierius Lietuvoje XV—XVIII a: Atlasas. Vilnius: Mintis, 1967, t. 1—2.
- Krusiński, Tadeusz Jan. Pragmatographia de legitimo usu Ambrozyi Tureckiey, to iest: Opisanie sposobu należytego zażywania Kawy Tureckiey. Przez X. Thadeusza Krusinskiego S. J. Missyonarza Perskiego. Rzecz z rękopisma Jego wybrana y do druku podana. Warszawa, 1765, 18 s.
- Wieczorkowicz A. Compendium medicum auctum to jest krótkie zebranie y opisanie chorob, […]. Częstochowa: w Drukarni Jasney Góry Częstochowskiey, 1725.
- Chmielowski B. Nowe Ateny… albo Akademia wszelkiej sciencji pełna, na różne tytułyjak na classes podzielona, mądrym dla memoriału, idiotom dla nauki, politykom dla praktyki, melancholikom dla rozrywki erygowana. Lwów; t. I 1745, t. 2 1746.
- Wendland E., Kawa, herbata i czekolada: nowe napoje XVIII-wiecznej Rzeczypospolitej — ich wpływ na życie codzienne, Toruń, 2008, s. 68—70.
- Mariani A. Kultura materialna jezuitów wileńskich: Między ideałem religijnym a rzeczywistością społeczną. Senoji Lietuvos literatūra, 2020, 49, Jėzuitai Lietuvoje: tarp kasdienybės ir amžinybės, s. 146—173. doi: https://doi.org/10.51554/SLL.2020.28743
- Sliž N. Pierwszy kaffenhauz w Grodnie / 1. Lietuvos Didžioji Kunigaikštystė: tarp tradicijųir naujovių XVIII amžiaus studijos sudarytoja Ramunė Šmigelskytė–Stukienė / Lietuvos istorijos institutas, 52 Leidykla. Vilnius, 2014, s. 215—223.
- Herman R. O handlowo-przemysłowym użytku ciał roślinnych. Lwów, Zakł. Ossolińskich, 1864, s. 37.
- Cieśla M. Kupcy, arendarze i rzemieślnicy: różnorodność zawodowa Żydów w Wielkim Księstwie Litewskim w XVII i XVIII w. Instytut Historii PAN Warszawa, 2018, s. 205. doi: https://doi.org/10.15762/ZH.2018.40
- Gołębiowski Ł. Domy i dwory przy tem opisanie apteczki, kuchni, stołów, uczt, biesiad, trunków i pijatyki… Warszawa: Gluksberg, 1830, s. 75.
- Martyna E. Akcesoria serwisów do herbaty XVIII—XIX wiek. Zastawy stołowe XVI—XX. Materiały z sesji towarzyszącej wystawie “Splendor stołu” w Muzeum sztuki złotniczej — Kazimierz Dolny 26—27 pażdżiernika 2006, s. 17.
- Wolska K. Naliboki i Urzecze, czyli słów kilka o hutach Radziwiłłowskich / Szkło i Ceramika, 2014, R. 65, nr 2, s.19—22.
- Lewandowska D. Histoire culturelle du vin français en Pologne : moitié XVIIè-début XIXè siècle. Histoire. Université Michel de Montaigne — Bordeaux III; Uniwersytet Mikołaja Kopernika (Toruń, Pologne), 2013, 578 s.
|